How to make a buttonhole by hand

A hand-sewn buttonhole is the answer when the machine has no buttonhole mode, on thick coat wool, on knitwear or when restoring an old garment. Here is how to mark, cut and finish a buttonhole by hand with buttonhole stitch so it is even and does not split, how to choose its direction and how to space the buttonholes along a closure.

Hand or machine buttonhole

A machine buttonhole is quick and even, but not every machine copes with thick coating or several layers of coat fabric with interfacing: the foot will not pass and the stitches lie unevenly. A hand buttonhole does not depend on fabric thickness; it can be any length and shape, with an eye for the button shank. Hand buttonholes are traditional on high-end suits and coats: a hand-worked edge is raised and dense and frays more slowly. And when restoring an old garment, a hand buttonhole lets you match the original finish.

What you need

• A fine sharp needle and strong thread: polyester or dedicated buttonhole twist (silk) matching the fabric.
• Chalk or a fine marker, a ruler.
• Small sharp scissors or a seam ripper, a pin.
• The button you are making the buttonhole for.
• Optional: a gimp cord and a piece of beeswax.

Why wax. Buttonhole thread is drawn through wax: it twists and tangles less, the stitches lie more evenly, and the thread itself becomes stronger and does not fray from rubbing against the fabric. Why gimp. It is a thicker cord laid along the cut and worked over with buttonhole stitch. It makes the edge of the buttonhole raised and firm, so the buttonhole does not stretch from constant buttoning. On coats and jackets this is especially noticeable.

Horizontal or vertical

The direction of a buttonhole depends on where the closure pulls. On coats, jackets and belts the load runs across the closure, so buttonholes are horizontal: the button rests against the end of the buttonhole and does not slip out. On a shirt placket, a narrow strip of fabric, a horizontal buttonhole simply does not fit, so buttonholes there are vertical, down the middle of the placket. Knit cardigans also often get vertical buttonholes: they stretch less in wear.

Step 1. Marking

The buttonhole is the button's diameter plus its thickness. For a flat button that is the diameter + 2-3 mm, for a domed or shank button more. Mark the buttonhole line with chalk and add crossbars at the ends. Horizontal buttonholes (coats, jackets) start 2-3 mm past the centre front towards the edge; vertical ones (a shirt placket) run down its centre.

How to space the buttonholes

First fix the top and bottom buttonholes. On a shirt the top one sits about 1-1.5 cm below the neckline; on a jacket or coat, at the start of the lapel or where the closure should meet. The bottom one is usually 8-12 cm above the hem. Divide the distance between them into equal intervals: the number of buttonholes minus one. Mark all the buttonholes at once, check that they stand on one line at the same distance from the edge, and only then start working them. On women's clothes one buttonhole is often placed at the fullest part of the bust so the closure does not gape there.

Step 2. Outline

Sew a small stitch around the line in a rectangle, 1-2 mm from it on each side. This stitching holds the fabric layers and keeps the edges from stretching while you work.

Step 3. Cut

Put a pin across one end of the buttonhole so you do not cut too far, and cut along the line with a seam ripper or scissors from the middle to the ends. If the fabric frays, dab the cut with a thin layer of fabric glue and let it dry.

Step 4. Buttonhole stitch and bar tacks

1. Start at the bottom end. Take the needle into the cut and out beyond the outline stitching; before pulling the stitch tight, loop the thread under the needle point: a small knot forms on the edge.
2. Place the stitches close together, of equal depth, with the knots towards the cut. This makes the edge even and strong.
3. When one side is done, make a bar tack at the end: 4-5 stitches across both edges, covered with buttonhole stitch.
4. Work the other side and make a bar tack at the other end. Secure the thread on the wrong side.

If you use gimp, anchor its end near the start of the buttonhole, lay it along both edges of the cut and work buttonhole stitch over it. At the end, take it to the wrong side and secure it together with the main thread.

Take the thread in one length with enough for the whole buttonhole: joining thread mid-way is awkward, and the join will show.

Keyhole buttonhole for coats

On coats and jackets the buttonhole often has a round eye at the end nearer the edge: the button shank sits in it and the buttonhole keeps its shape. Before cutting, punch a small hole at that end with an awl and work around it with the same buttonhole stitch.

Buttonholes on knits

Knit stretches, so a buttonhole in it easily gapes and becomes longer than the button. Always back it on the wrong side with a piece of fusible interfacing a little larger than the buttonhole, keep the stitches small and shallow, and make the buttonhole 1-2 mm shorter than for woven fabric: the knit will stretch a little in wear anyway.

Tips

• Practise on a scrap of the same fabric, layered as in the garment.
• Work all buttonholes in the same direction, starting from the same end: they will look alike on the closure.
• Keep the stitch depth even: an uneven buttonhole is most often down to stitches of different length.

How to check the finished buttonhole

Pass the button through the buttonhole a few times. It should go through easily, without force, but not slip out by itself when the closure is pulled lightly. The edges should meet closely, with no gap in the middle, and the bar tacks at the ends should not part. Look at the wrong side too: the threads should be secured, without loops or knots that will catch.

Common mistakes

• Cutting before outlining. The edges fray and the stitches have nothing to hold on to.
• Uneven stitch depth. The edge of the buttonhole comes out wavy.
• Weak bar tacks. The buttonhole tears at the ends under load.
• A buttonhole too tight for the button. The button passes with effort, and the threads soon wear through.

Frequently asked questions

How long does one buttonhole take?

The first ones may take half an hour; with practice a buttonhole takes 10-15 minutes.

The buttonhole has stretched. What can I do?

Narrow it with a few stitches on the wrong side at one end, then rework that end in buttonhole stitch with a bar tack. Another option: sew on a slightly larger button, if the design of the closure allows.

What thread if I have no buttonhole twist?

Strong polyester thread matching the fabric, drawn through wax. For thick fabric it can be doubled.

Buttons for the buttonhole

Button sizes in lignes and millimetres are in our size chart, and how to sew a button on is in our step-by-step guide. All buttons are in the Buttons section.